Sunday, August 27, 2006

I'm fine, thank you...


That's what you would reply when someone asks you "Soksabay che te?" which means "How are you?" in Khmer, the language spoken in Cambodia. The articles to follow are a documentation of my travel to Cambodia. Unlike most Americans & Europeans, we Asians do not have the luxury of a long holiday. And thus we usually have to cram wherever we wanna go in the time frame alloted. With 8 days in our pockets, my friend and I managed to cover Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

This series of blog would serve more as a reference for myself in the event I find the urge to return to Cambodia. Use it at your own risk; I shall not assume any responsibility for any misinformation contained herein. As a traveller, it is always wise to do research before embarking on a journey.

Entrance of Siem Reap International Airport


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  • Pre-travel Essentials

    Okay, these are the things you have to know... (I'm talking to myself reading this!)

    1. The currency used in Cambodia is the riel; however the de-facto currency is those green paper with pictures of the American Presidents on it. As at August 2006, it is generally accepted that USD 1 is equivalent to rl 4,000 which is in turn equivalent to approximately RM 4.
    2. If you have accomodation bookings prior to arrival either in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh International Airport, most guesthouses provide free transfer from the airports. Just be sure to confirm whether they have the service and let them know your arrival date and time.
    3. It's hot and unless you survive on alcohol, drink plenty of water. The pure drinking water in 600 ml blue bottles cost rl 500 each (approx RM 0.50). Hell! If you buy 1/2 dozen like my friend did, it costs rl 2,500 in total (approx RM 2.50).
    4. You need to bargain, bargain, bargain if u want fair-price. I know this is a God-forsaken country and the people are poor; beggars for money and food are rampant. I personally believe in paying what you should be paying and not more. You can bargain before buying, eating or paying for any sort of services. And always do it with a smile; it goes a long long way...
    5. Food costs anywhere between rl 3,000 to USD 3 depending on the location and how good you are at bargaining. Basically, there is not much need to bargain when you are eating at one of those hawker stalls around Phsa Chas, Siem Reap coz the price is standard and reasonably cheap. However, you may find prices of food more exhorbitant around the temples of Angkor. If you do find the need to lunch at the temple areas, be mindful to bargain hard before sitting down. Otherwise, the price is fixed at the last price agreed upon.
    6. A tuk-tuk anywhere around Siem Reap costs rl 1,000 and anywhere within Phnom Penh is rl 2,000. Do not agree to anything more than that. Better still, if you are energetic enough, WALK!
    7. If you need to purchase a bus ticket for travel to other cities, do it at the respective travel agencies and not at the guesthouses coz most if not all charge extra (usually an additional USD 1-2). If you are staying in the Boeng Kak Lake area in Phnom Penh, the Neak Krorhom sales office is just around the corner. They even provide free tuk-tuk transfer from the lake area to the respective bus station for you to catch your bus.
    8. If you are visiting the temples of Angkor in Siem Reap; note that you have to purchase a temple pass. A one-day pass would cost USD 20, three-day pass at USD 40 while a seven-day pass would cost USD 60. It would be a sin to buy just a one-day pass; usually three days would be sufficient. Note that the pass covers all temples except Phnom Kulen which requires an additional USD 20 by itself; and I say to hell with it - not worth that price!
    9. Remember to also set aside USD 25 as that is exactly what the cheeky Airport Departure tax cost (International departure from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh); local departure tax is USD6 for any of the two airports.






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  • Friday, August 18, 2006

    Day Three (afternoon): Banteay Srey

    After lunch, we headed to Banteay Srey. The name 'Banteay Srey' loosely translates into "Citadel of the Woman". This ruin is well-known for its beautiful intricate carvings on its pinkish stones & walls.

    However, open your eyes during the trip to Banteay Srey. You'll get a glimpse of a beautiful countryside and vast green padi-fields.

    Vast beautiful padi-fields...


    ... trees, green fields, muddy fields... serene Cambodian scenery...


    ... more vast beautiful padi-fields...


    Entrance into Banteay Srey ruins... unique carvings on the door way


    A pink walkway within the walls of Banteay Srey


    Beautiful carvings... burnt toast!


    Humongous stone jigsaw puzzles... can you handle it?


    ...someone stole my head! [Tomb raiders have caused such desecration of beautiful artefacts]


    Part of the temple cordoned off... to prevent vandalism by vandals like us


    Sanskrit writings on the wall


    Ornate designs on the walls of the temple


    Perfectly detailed carvings to admire... you think you can replicate that?


    ... pink toast!


    ... more pink toast!


    ... pink walls, pink colums, The Pink Phenomenon


    Banteay Srey surrounded by a water lily moat


    Banteay Srey surrounded by a moat and a wall...


    Three musketeers and one amigo: (L-R) Cambodian Tourist Police, Me, Cambodian Police, Apsara Temple Authority Guard




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  • Day Three (morning): Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som & East Mebon

    We started off slightly late on our third day after a tiring 2 days. For today's itinery, we will be visiting Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som and East Mebon before heading to Banteay Srei which is 37 km away from Siem Reap approx 1 hours journey by tuk-tuk.

    Preah Khan

    Entrance into Preah Khan

    Preah Khan was a rather huge complex; apparently was some sort of a school or university in the olden days. The Buddhist carvings on the walls of this ruin was quite intricate and beautiful.

    The backyard of Preah Khan... nice, spacious backyard


    Preah Khan... the past revisited


    This tree of life was obviously becoming a tree of destruction... one trunk had to be chopped down to alleviate the stress on the structure.


    The tree of life... looks like a Brontosaurus climbing a wall


    Beautiful and intricate carvings... dancing imps?


    columns of walkways... back to the future!


    a bell? or a tomb?


    more carvings... squating imps?


    The apsaras of Preah Khan


    The front portion of Preah Khan



    School / University building... looks like one of 'em Greek structures


    The majestic walls surrounding Preah Khan... parts of which were in a state of disrepair and vulnerable to the Hanson intrusion.

    Neak Pean

    This is a small island temple surrounded by a reservoir and 4 ponds. Apparently, this ruin is most photogenic during the wet season when the surrounding pools are filled. It was the dry season when I went there. So we got to walk across the dry path to the island temple in the middle.


    The island temple behind me


    Neak Pean... pronounced as 'Knee-ak Pond'


    there's a head in the hole... believe it!


    The four heads in the four holes... one is that of Dumbo, apparently another is that of a horse... not sure about the other two tho'


    Seven-headed Serpent encircling the island temple... turned to stone by Medusa


    Ta Som

    After Neak Pean, we made our way to Ta Som... which had an entrance crowned with 4 heads like Angkor Thom and tree of lifes over the structures like Ta Prohm; but on a smaller scale. But much of this place is in disrepair and under going massive renovation.


    Ain't no entrance into Angkor Thom... it's Ta Som!


    Look at the piling to form the roof... isn't it a wonder?


    ... looks like something from Ta Prohm... this tree seems to be crushing the gate...


    I wonder where the people who constructed this structure (especially the roof) got the idea from... simply brilliant!

    East Mebon

    The stones and material used for construction of this temple was rather different from the previous ones we saw. It looks like one of them desert buildings... very picturesque I must say. Plus the surrounding was one of padi fields and palm trees. Imagine a desert in the midst of an oasis.

    Looking into the windows of East Mebon


    The oasis surrounding East Mebon...


    The ruins inside the walls of East Mebon


    Very intricate carvings on one of them towers...


    ... a place of worship...


    ... uniquely different from all the other temples...


    East Mebon... the big picture


    The towers of Mebon...


    A hopeful model doing a hopeless pose...




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